Lantau Island 1 - The Big Buddha

I was going to put this post up as one for all of Lantau Island, but then realised how wrong that would be given that there is so much to do here!

Pretty much every visitor who comes to Hong Kong comes to Lantau, as it is the site of the airport at Chek Lap Kok. Those who come back here to do some sightseeing during their trip however come mainly for two reasons: 1) Disneyland 2) The Big Buddha (also called Tian Tan Buddha). In this humble scribe's opinion you can safely skip the former, but while the latter is somewhat of a major tourist magnet it is definitely worth the trip.

The statue itself is the world's largest outdoor sitting statue of Buddha made out of bronze (don't act like you're not impressed!) It stands at 110 ft high and sits on a platform which is reached by climbing 268 steps. It's free to get this far, but if you want to go inside (where there's an exhibition on Buddhism, the construction of the statue and access to the upper platform) you have to buy a food ticket (seriously!) The ticket costs about $4 and can be redeemed at the nearby vegetarian restaurant or one of the snack kiosks around the Buddha.

The views from both the lower and upper platforms over Lantau are great, and the statue is undoubtedly impressive, but unfortunately there's no real history to the statue in the same way as there is with other "Big Buddhas" across Asia. This project was only started in 1990, and completed in December 1993 at a cost of $68 million.

Next door to the statue, however, is the equally impressive but slightly more historic Po Lin Monastery. Founded in 1903 by three visiting monks from Jiangsu Province in North East China, the monastery is a fairly large complex with an incredibly ornate main temple, which includes three further bronze statues of Buddha. Approaching from the Big Buddha you enter via a garden filled with furnaces burning incense (as shown in the photo above), the smell and sight of which is rather moving. The monastery is walled off, and once entering through the ornate gates you emerge into a small courtyard with the temple ahead of you and flanked either side by the living quarters, with a small vegetarian restaurant on the left. Even with the crowds the whole thing is as peaceful as things get in Hong Kong, and while the cynical will be upset by the presence of numerous souvenir stands and snack stalls, it is still a impressive sight and one of the best temples to see in the region.

Whilst still at the top there are also a number of walks that can be taken, such as the Wisdom Path (an easy walk around the top of the hillside through woodland and complete with more Buddha statues), the walk to Lantau Peak (Hong Kong's second highest mountain), and the longer walk to Sunset Peak. We haven't done these yet, but plan to and will post on them when we have.

Just as much fun as being at the Big Buddha is the making the trip there and back. There are a number of ways of making the journey to the top either from Tung Chung or Mui Wo (Silvermine Bay), so the route we took is by no means the only option, but we reckon it's the best, that's why we took it!!

We got here by first taking the MTR to Tung Chung then getting a glass-bottomed cable car (called Ngong Ping 360) up the mountain. This is a great way to go, as you get cracking views over the mountains and the coast right next to Tung Chung. Then as you sweep over the ridge you see the big bronze head of the statue peering over the hillside at you on the left-hand side. It's a great introduction to the place, made even more magnificent on a cloudy day when the statue appears out of the mist right at the last second.

To get to the cable car come out of the MTR station into the big square with the fountains and head left towards the bus stop. You'll see the station from there. Bring money, as this trip is not the cheapest way up and, while you can pay on credit card, those who want to pay cash won't find an ATM up at the station, the nearest one being back down in Tung Chung at the MTR, and there's always a massive queue. A single trip (you won't need a return on this itinerary) will cost $63 in a normal cabin and $109 in one of the "crystal cabins" (glass bottomed). The opening times are 10am-6pm weekdays, 9am-6.30pm weekends and holidays.

After getting off the cable car you're greeted by the rather tacky Ngong Ping "Chinese Style" village. You can head straight through this unless you want a starbucks or a t-shirt with a monkey on it! The bus station is behind the village. Walk straight through and out the other side to get to the Buddha.

Once you've done looking round, the best way back is take a bus down to Mui Wo. The road winds down the mountain side with views over the coast and past the reservoir on its way into the small coastal village. Sit on the left-hand side for the best views. You'll need the No.2 bus, which departs Ngong Ping pretty much every 45 mins weekdays and Saturdays until 6.20pm ($17.20 one way), every 30 mins or so on Sundays and holidays until 6.45pm ($20 one way).

At the bottom there's not much to do in Mui Wo other than catch the ferry back. There's a bike rental place right by the ferry pier (where the bus drops you off) if you want to hang about. The beach extends out of town to the left of the ferry pier, past a few dodgy looking seafood stalls, as is decent enough for a short walk. Otherwise there's a short walk out of town to a waterfall near the old mine that gives the bay its English name. Follow the road back out of town the way you came in on the bus and you'll see the sign posts.

If you do get the ferry back, sit on the right hand side for views of the Central skyline as you come back in to Hong Kong Island. The ferries are every 40 mins and are mostly the fast ferry service which cost $25.50 Monday to Saturday and $36.70 Sundays and holidays. The slow ferry is about half the price but does not run often and takes about an hour.

All in all budget at least $500 for two people for the transport and drinks/lunch etc, and expect to spend the whole day out and about.

Po Lin website: http://www.plm.org.hk/blcs/en/index.asp

Ngong Ping 360: http://www.np360.com.hk/html/eng/front/index.asp